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Mac 'n' Cheese, Comfort Cuisine for Urban Hipsters
12/17/09
Mac 'n' Cheese, Comfort Cuisine for Urban Hipsters
In big cities such as Boston, San Diego and New York, urban hipsters are turning to a dish with a reputation for coming out of a box and being served to kids alongside chicken tenders. Macaroni and cheese is now considered top-tier comfort food for foodies who are opting for unique cheeses, pungent spices and out-of-the-ordinary pastas to transform this all-American favorite into haute cuisine.
Part of the new popularity of mac ‘n’ cheese can be attributed to the economic downturn, as restaurants turn to reasonably priced comfort foods that will still entice patrons. And for devoted home cooks, opting for mac ‘n’ cheese out of a box will never do.
Food writer Carol Ann Kates prefers starting from scratch, using her favorite creamy and gooey cheeses.
“The most important lesson I’ve learned about making this comfort food is you must make it with love and take your time preparing it, just like mom did,” Kates said.
In New York City, Sarita’s Macaroni & Cheese restaurant, or S’MAC, located in the East Village, is a trend setter. Wall Street Journal food writer Raymond Sokolov recently praised S’MAC’s “masala,” a macaroni and cheese dish infused with the taste of India, the home country of owners Sarita and Caesar Ekya.
In Soho, a newly opened rival called Macbar lures customers with gourmet mac ‘n’ cheese entrees. Macbar offers more traditional favorites, such as beef stroganoff and a “margarita” pasta dish that is similar to Margherita pizza, featuring tomato, mozzarella and basil.
At Urban Solace restaurant in San Diego, Chef Matt Gordon features duckaroni, which relies on a four-cheese béchamel sauce, sautéed duck confit, blue cheese, scallions, arugula, roasted garlic and macaroni.
In Boston, the Mac & Cheese Takedown was held Nov. 15. The event featured a contest for the most creative macaroni and cheese dishes, and Bostonians were invited to sample the entries for a $10 fee. The takedown attracted a large, mostly younger crowd and boasted an upbeat, festival flavor.
Macaroni and cheese is gaining in favor because in tough economic times, comfort foods are both affordable and soothing. Plus foodies are discovering that staples such as cheese and pasta can be enhanced with various spices and creative touches.
As Sokolov noted, “Mac ‘n’ cheese is simple and reassuring, honest and cheap. It can absorb a touch of truffled luxury or ethnic flavors without losing its basic American sincerity.”
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